I hadn't slept as well as I thought I might, given my efforts the day before. I had some wild-arsed plan to ride the 300k to the Goan coast in 2 days. I just wanted to be in the ocean. This plan proved to be hopelessly optimistic when I hit the first hills of the day and the legs were just not responding. Tank empty. I had also been routed on to some real bone- shaking back roads where, apart from the discomfort, my average speed, as I picked my way through the potholes, was pathetic. I re-routed on to the nearest highway and tried to ignore the fact that I was heading back south instead of west. I was starting to feel a bit nauseous and feverish, with a headache and a runny nose. Nothing serious, just the body saying "Be fair - give me a break". On the map Halliyal was roughly the right direction and distance at 50-odd kilometres. You just don't know about the accommodation prospects with these smallish towns. If there is a 'lodge' as they are called it certainly won't be advertising itself in Lonely Planet or Trip Advisor, nor will it have wifi........basically off the tourist radar completely.
I haven't seen another cycle tourist since I arrived in India.......so I feel kind of special.
So Haliyal it is........at a steady pace.
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| The Karnatakan equivalent of Romany gypsies |
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"CowHA" copyrighted to Himalayan Academy Publications
In Hinduism, the cow is a symbol of wealth, strength, abundance, selfless giving and a full Earthly life............and an abundance of cowpats in the streets. |
I am surprised at the number of cattle still used on the land.....they far outnumber tractors in the areas I'm travelling through.
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| Lots and lots of brick kilns in Karnatika. The labour involved in building and firing is staggering. Not sure how they work but they seem to have layers of charcoal and unjointed bricks forming the walls. You can just see the charcoal smoking at the top |
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| Cows and water buffalo cooling off. The landscape is starting to green up. |
I reach Haliyal and am so pleased to spot a hotel on the outskirts that I dive in straight away, The manager may not be rude but he certainly has a rude manner. Not a please, thank you or welcoming smile. I give my usual lecture "In England we say...........but I think it is lost on him.
I walk into town and buy some paracetamol and ibruprofen, dose up and go to bed. It's 4pm, The bed is unusually comfy, I think I might stay here another night.
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